I finally got around to testing some hi tek coated bullets at the range last weekend, and I've got to say, my Glock is a lot happier for it. If you've been reloading for any length of time, you've probably noticed those bright, colorful projectiles popping up in forum threads and at local IDPA matches. They look a bit like candy or maybe oversized crayons, but they've basically changed the game for those of us who used to spend hours scrubbing lead deposits out of our barrels.
For years, the choice was simple: you either paid a premium for jacketed or plated bullets, or you saved money by shooting raw cast lead. The problem with lead, as anyone who's shot a couple hundred rounds of it knows, is the smoke and the mess. It's dirty, it smells like a tire fire, and it leaves your hands covered in gray grime. That's where the Hi-Tek coating comes in. It's a heat-set polymer catalyst that wraps the lead in a protective shell, and after putting a few thousand of these through various handguns, I'm not sure I'll ever go back to traditional wax-lubed lead.
What is this stuff anyway?
It's worth noting that "Hi-Tek" isn't actually a brand of bullet, but rather a coating developed in Australia by a guy named Joe Schneider. It's a mix of polymers and catalysts that gets baked onto the lead at high temperatures. Unlike the old-school wax rings you see on traditional lead bullets, this coating actually bonds to the metal. It doesn't melt off in the heat, and it doesn't rub off on your fingers while you're working the reloading press.
When you look at hi tek coated bullets, the first thing you'll notice is the color. You can find them in gold, brick red, neon green, and even electric blue. The color doesn't really do anything for performance—though I'll admit the "zombie green" ones look pretty cool—but the coating itself acts as a dry lubricant. It prevents metal-to-metal contact between the lead and the rifling, which is the whole secret to why they run so clean.
Say goodbye to the smoke screen
One of the biggest reasons I switched to hi tek coated bullets was the smoke. If you've ever shot traditional cast lead at an indoor range, you know the struggle. The wax lubricant used on those bullets has to melt to work, and when it hits that flash of hot gas, it turns into a thick, white cloud. After a few magazines, it looks like you're trying to stage a 1980s rock concert in your lane.
The Hi-Tek coating doesn't do that. Since there's no wax to burn off, the smoke is drastically reduced—it's almost as clean as shooting full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo. This is a massive win for competitive shooters who need to see their targets clearly for fast follow-up shots. It also makes you a lot more popular at the range, since the person in the lane next to you won't be coughing on your fumes all afternoon.
Keeping the barrel clean
Cleaning a gun after a long session with raw lead is a chore I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy. You're usually stuck with a bronze brush and some heavy-duty solvent, scrubbing away at the "leading" that builds up in the grooves of the barrel. If you let it go too long, accuracy drops off, and in extreme cases, it can even cause pressure spikes.
Because the polymer coating on hi tek coated bullets stays intact until it leaves the muzzle, the lead never actually touches the bore. When I'm done at the range now, I usually just run a dry patch through the barrel and maybe a quick wipe with some Hoppe's, and it's spotless. Even in polygonal rifling—which is notoriously picky about lead—these things seem to run without a hitch. I've run them through my Glock 17 and my CZ Shadow 2, and both barrels look shiny and new even after a heavy weekend of shooting.
Reloading with coated bullets
If you're a reloader, you'll find that hi tek coated bullets are a dream to work with, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First, you don't have to deal with that sticky, greasy lube getting all over your seating die. If you've ever had to take apart a die because it was gunked up with bullet wax, you know how annoying that is.
However, you do have to be a bit careful with your flare. You need to expand the case mouth just enough so that the bullet sits inside without the brass shaving the coating off. If you're too aggressive with the crimp or if you don't flare enough, you'll see little flakes of the coating on your bench. That's a no-go, because once the coating is scratched, you're back to square one with leading issues.
A common trick is the "thumbnail test." If you can't scrape the coating off with your fingernail, it's cured correctly. When you're reloading, just do a quick pull-test on a finished round to make sure the coating isn't getting sliced during the seating process. Once you get your dies dialed in, it's honestly faster and cleaner than any other type of reloading I've done.
Accuracy and velocity
I've heard some people worry that a "plastic" coating might hurt accuracy, but in my experience, that's just not the case. At typical handgun distances—say, 15 to 25 yards—I can't tell the difference between these and much more expensive plated bullets. They're consistent, they're sized correctly (usually .001 larger than jacketed, which helps with the seal), and they fly straight.
As for speed, you can push hi tek coated bullets pretty hard. While they are mostly used for standard handgun velocities, some guys are running them in 300 Blackout or other carbine rounds at speeds over 1,500 feet per second without the coating breaking down. I mostly stick to 9mm and .45 ACP, but it's nice to know the coating can handle the heat if I decide to spice things up.
Saving a few bucks
Let's talk about the money, because that's usually why we get into reloading in the first place. Jacketed bullets are getting expensive, and even plated options like Berry's have gone up in price lately. Hi tek coated bullets sit right in that "sweet spot" of value. They are significantly cheaper than FMJ, but they offer almost all the same benefits in terms of cleanliness and ease of use.
For someone like me who goes through a few hundred rounds a week, the savings really add up. You're getting the performance of a high-end projectile for just a few cents more than the dirtiest raw lead you can find. It's hard to argue with that logic.
Are there any downsides?
To be fair, nothing is perfect. The most common complaint you'll hear about hi tek coated bullets is the smell. While they don't smoke like wax, they do have a distinct "burnt plastic" or "chemical" scent when you fire them. It's not necessarily bad, but it's definitely different. Some people say it smells like burning hair; I think it smells more like an electronics shop, but either way, you'll notice it.
Also, if you buy from a small-time caster who doesn't have their baking process dialed in, you can occasionally get a "bad batch" where the coating doesn't adhere properly. But if you stick with reputable outfits like Bayou Bullets, Missouri Bullet Company, or Blue Bullets, the quality control is usually top-notch.
Final thoughts on making the switch
At the end of the day, hi tek coated bullets have made shooting a lot more enjoyable for me. I spend less time at the cleaning bench and more time actually practicing. My reloading room stays cleaner, my lungs feel a bit better at the indoor range, and my wallet isn't taking a massive hit every time I place an order.
If you're still on the fence, I'd suggest grabbing a small sample pack. Most of the big suppliers sell 100-round bags so you can test them out in your specific firearm without committing to a 2,000-round bulk box. Just remember to check your flare and crimp, and I'm willing to bet you'll be a convert pretty quickly. It's just one of those rare upgrades that actually lives up to the hype.